A Beginner's Guide to Actually Understanding Photography


Welcome back, photography friends! If you read Part 1 (and if you haven't, go check it out first—we'll wait!), you now understand the Exposure Triangle, know the most common mistakes portrait photographers make, have a solid grasp on aperture, and can work magic with golden hour light.

But we're not done yet! In this second part, we're tackling three more crucial topics that will level up your photography game: white balance (why your photos sometimes look weirdly orange or blue), our proven 30-day challenge to get you shooting in Manual mode, and how to actually nail focus every single time.

Grab that coffee (or wine—still not judging), and let's dive in!


5. What White Balance Actually Means (And Why Your Indoor Photos Look Like a Horror Movie)

Alright, let's talk about one of the most overlooked aspects of photography: white balance. This is the thing that makes your sunset photos look beautifully warm and golden, or turns your indoor portraits into scenes from a dystopian sci-fi film. Understanding white balance is like putting on glasses after years of squinting—suddenly everything just looks RIGHT.

The Science Made Simple

Here's the deal: different light sources have different color temperatures, measured in Kelvin (K). Your brain is incredibly smart and automatically adjusts for this. When you look at a white piece of paper indoors under tungsten bulbs or outdoors in sunlight, your brain says "yep, that's white" even though the actual light hitting that paper is very different colors.

Your camera? Not so smart. It needs you to tell it what "white" looks like in your current lighting situation. That's white balance.

The Color Temperature Scale:

  • Candlelight: 1,000-2,000K (very warm/orange)
  • Tungsten/Household bulbs: 2,500-3,500K (warm/yellow-orange)
  • Fluorescent lights: 4,000-5,000K (cool/greenish)
  • Daylight: 5,000-6,500K (neutral)
  • Cloudy/Overcast: 6,500-8,000K (cool/blue)
  • Shade: 7,000-9,000K (very cool/blue)

Lower numbers = warmer (more orange/yellow)

Higher numbers = cooler (more blue)

The White Balance Presets

Your camera has a bunch of white balance presets with little icons. Here's what they actually do:

Auto White Balance (AWB): The camera guesses. Sometimes it's amazing, sometimes it makes your subject look like a Smurf. We use this when we're in a rush or the lighting is consistent, but it's not our go-to.

Daylight/Sunny: Set to around 5,200K. Use this for... daylight! Shocking, we know.

Cloudy: Around 6,000K. Adds warmth to counteract the cool blue tone of overcast skies. Stephanie actually uses this in daylight sometimes because she loves slightly warm images.

Shade: Around 7,000K. Adds even more warmth because shade is very blue.

Tungsten/Incandescent: Around 3,200K. Cools down the orange cast of household bulbs.

Fluorescent: Around 4,000K. Tries to deal with that awful green tint of fluorescent lights.

Flash: Around 5,500K. For when you're using flash.

Our White Balance Workflow

Here's what we actually do in real shooting situations:

For portraits outdoors: We usually use the Cloudy preset (even on sunny days) because we like the slightly warm look it gives. It makes skin tones glow.

For portraits indoors: We set a custom white balance using a gray card or shoot in RAW and fix it in post. Indoor lighting is often mixed (window light + overhead lights) and tricky.

For golden hour: Daylight or Cloudy preset. We want to preserve that warm, golden glow, not neutralize it!

For consistency: If we're shooting in the same location with consistent light, we'll set a custom white balance at the start and use it throughout the session.

The RAW vs. JPEG Consideration

Here's a game-changer: if you shoot in RAW format, white balance is completely adjustable in post-processing with zero quality loss. You can shoot with the "wrong" white balance and fix it later perfectly. If you shoot JPEG, your white balance is baked into the file. You can adjust it in editing, but you'll lose quality and may not be able to fully correct it. This is one of the biggest reasons we shoot RAW for professional work. But even if you're shooting JPEG, getting white balance close in-camera will make your editing life so much easier.

When to Break the Rules

Sometimes "incorrect" white balance is actually more creative. Shooting at the wrong color temperature can create mood:

  • Want a cool, moody feel? Use Tungsten preset in daylight for a blue cast.
  • Want an extra-warm, cozy vibe? Use Shade or Cloudy preset indoors with warm lighting.
  • Mixing color temperatures? Sometimes that's actually interesting! A warm subject in a cool environment can create visual interest.

Photography is art, not science. Once you understand the rules, breaking them intentionally can create amazing results.

The Practice Exercise

For the next week, take the same photo of something in your house (a plant, a mug, whatever) using each white balance preset. Compare them side by side. Notice how dramatically the mood changes just by adjusting white balance? That's the power you now have!


6. From Auto to Manual Mode: 30-Day Challenge

Okay, this is it. The big one. The thing that separates people who "have a nice camera" from people who actually know how to use it. We're going to get you shooting in Manual mode in 30 days, and it's going to be way easier than you think. First, let's address the elephant in the room: you don't have to shoot in Manual mode to be a "real" photographer. We know plenty of professionals who shoot in Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority and create stunning work. But understanding Manual mode gives you complete creative control and helps you understand your camera on a deeper level. When Alfred finally made the switch to Manual, he said it felt like driving a car with an automatic transmission his whole life and then getting into a manual sports car. Sure, the automatic got him where he needed to go, but the manual made him understand what was actually happening under the hood.

The 30-Day Roadmap

Days 1-3: Understanding What You're Actually Doing

Don't touch Manual mode yet. Instead:

  • Review the Exposure Triangle (go back to Part 1 if needed)
  • Take photos in Auto mode, then look at the settings your camera chose (check your shutter speed, aperture, and ISO)
  • Ask yourself: Why did the camera choose these settings? What was it prioritizing?

Understanding the logic helps you make better decisions later.

Days 4-10: Aperture Priority Mode (A or Av)

Switch to Aperture Priority. In this mode:

  • YOU choose the aperture (controlling depth of field)
  • The camera chooses the shutter speed
  • You choose the ISO (or set it to Auto ISO)

Your mission: Spend these days really understanding how aperture affects your images. Shoot the same scene at f/2.8, f/5.6, and f/11. See how depth of field changes. Start thinking: "I want a blurry background, so I need a wide aperture."

This is how Stephanie learned. She shot exclusively in Aperture Priority for about six months before switching to Manual.

Days 11-17: Shutter Priority Mode (S or Tv)

Switch to Shutter Priority. Now:

  • YOU choose the shutter speed (controlling motion blur)
  • The camera chooses the aperture
  • You still choose the ISO

Your mission: Practice freezing motion and creating intentional blur. Try to freeze your dog running (1/1000), capture a moving car with blur (1/30), experiment with panning. Start thinking: "I want to freeze this action, so I need a fast shutter speed."

Days 18-20: The Manual Mode Transition

Okay, here we go. Switch to Manual mode. But here's the trick: we're going to make it easy.

Your training wheels: Turn on Auto ISO.

Wait, isn't that cheating? Nope! You're still choosing your aperture and shutter speed—the two most important creative decisions. The camera just adjusts ISO to get you a proper exposure. It's like having a safety net while you learn.

Start by:

  1. Deciding what's most important: depth of field or freezing motion?
  2. Set that parameter first (aperture OR shutter speed)
  3. Set the other one to something reasonable
  4. Let Auto ISO fill in the gap
  5. Check your exposure and adjust if needed

Days 21-25: Metering Awareness

Still in Manual with Auto ISO, but now we're going to pay attention to that little meter in your viewfinder. You know, that scale with the +/- marks and a little indicator?

That's telling you if you're overexposed (too bright) or underexposed (too dark) based on your camera's metering mode.

Your mission: Take a photo. Look at the result. Is the meter accurate? Sometimes it is, sometimes it's not. Start learning when to trust it and when to override it.

This is where you develop your "eye" for exposure.

Days 26-28: Ditching Auto ISO

Time to take off the training wheels. Turn off Auto ISO and set it manually (start with ISO 400 as a baseline for outdoor shooting).

Now you're doing it all:

  1. Set your aperture based on desired depth of field
  2. Set your shutter speed based on desired motion blur
  3. Adjust ISO until your exposure is correct
  4. Check your image
  5. Adjust if needed

The first few times, you'll feel slow and clumsy. Alfred literally took 5 minutes to get his settings right for his first Manual mode shot. That's normal! By the end of day 28, you'll be doing it in seconds.

Days 29-30: Real-World Practice

Go shoot a real session or personal project entirely in Manual mode. A family member, your pet, a friend who owes you a favor. Real-world conditions with changing light will force you to think on your feet and adjust quickly.

By the end of these 30 days, Manual mode won't feel like rocket science anymore. It'll feel like second nature.

The Muscle Memory Secret

Here's what nobody tells you: the goal isn't to consciously think through every setting. The goal is to develop muscle memory so your hands adjust settings while your eye stays on the scene. After shooting Manual for a while, we don't think "I need to decrease my shutter speed by two stops"—our hand just reaches for the dial and does it. It's like typing—at first you hunt and peck, eventually your fingers know where to go.

When We Don't Use Manual

Plot twist: We don't always shoot in Manual! Sometimes we use:

  • Aperture Priority when we're shooting events and the light is changing rapidly but depth of field is our main concern
  • Manual with Auto ISO when we're shooting in consistent light but moving between sun and shade
  • Full Manual for portrait sessions where we have time to fine-tune everything

The point isn't to be dogmatic about always using Manual. The point is to understand it well enough to use it when you need it.


7. Understanding Focus Modes (Because Sharp Images Are Kind of Important)

Let's talk about focus, because you can have perfect exposure and beautiful composition, but if your image is blurry, it's pretty much useless. We've deleted SO many potentially great shots because we had the wrong focus mode selected. Let's make sure you don't make the same mistakes.

The Three Main Focus Modes

Every camera has some variation of these three modes (the naming differs by brand, but the concepts are the same):

Single/One-Shot Focus (AF-S/One-Shot AF)

This is your "focus and recompose" mode. When you half-press the shutter button, the camera focuses and LOCKS that focus. It doesn't change until you take the photo or release the button.

When to use it:

  • Stationary subjects (portraits of people not moving)
  • Landscapes
  • Still life
  • Any time your subject isn't moving

Pro tip: Focus on your subject's eyes (especially for portraits), then recompose your shot while keeping the shutter half-pressed. The focus stays locked on the eyes even as you adjust composition.

This is our most-used focus mode for portrait work. If our subject is standing still, this gives us the most control.

Continuous Focus (AF-C/AI Servo)

In this mode, the camera continuously refocuses as long as you hold the shutter button halfway down. If your subject moves closer or farther from you, the camera tracks them and adjusts focus.

When to use it:

  • Kids running around
  • Sports and action
  • Pets (because they never sit still)
  • Anything moving toward or away from you

The catch: This mode uses more battery and can sometimes "hunt" (focus back and forth) in low light. Also, it's tracking motion, so if you focus-and-recompose, it'll refocus on whatever's in your focus point, not what you originally focused on.

Stephanie uses this for family sessions with young kids. You just never know when they're going to bolt!

Auto/Hybrid Focus (AF-A/AI Focus AF)

The camera decides whether to use single or continuous focus based on whether it detects subject motion. Sounds great in theory, but in practice, it can be unpredictable.

When to use it: Honestly? We rarely do. We prefer to make the decision ourselves rather than letting the camera guess. But if you're photographing something where you're truly unsure if the subject will move (maybe a cat that might be sleeping or might pounce), it's an option.

Focus Point Selection

This is separate from focus mode but equally important. Your camera has multiple focus points (those little squares or dots you see in the viewfinder), and you get to choose which ones are active.

Single Point AF

You choose one specific focus point, and the camera only focuses using that point. This gives you maximum control.

We use this for portraits 95% of the time. We'll move that single point to be right over our subject's eye, focus, maybe recompose slightly, and shoot.

Zone/Dynamic AF

You select a zone of focus points, and the camera uses all of them to track your subject within that zone. Good for moving subjects where you want some flexibility.

Alfred uses this for photographing kids at events—they're moving, but somewhat predictably within a general area.

Auto/All Points AF

The camera chooses which of all available focus points to use, usually focusing on whatever's closest to the camera.

This rarely focuses on what we actually want in focus. We almost never use this for professional work, but it can work for snapshots where you just want something in focus and don't care what.

The Back Button Focus Game-Changer

Okay, this is going to blow your mind if you've never tried it: back button focus.

Normally, when you half-press the shutter button, it both focuses AND meters. But you can separate these functions—assign focusing to a button on the back of your camera (usually the AF-ON or * button) and leave the shutter button just for taking the photo.

Why this is amazing:

  1. Easy focus-and-recompose: Focus with your thumb, recompose, shoot. The focus doesn't change when you press the shutter.
  2. Quick switch between modes: Want to shoot one frame with locked focus and the next frame with continuous focus? Just press or don't press the back button. No menu diving.
  3. Better for continuous shooting: You can hold the back button to continuously focus, then rapid-fire the shutter without the camera trying to refocus between frames.

It feels weird for about a week, then you'll never want to go back. Both of us use back button focus exclusively now.

How to set it up: This varies by camera brand and model, so Google "back button focus [your camera model]" for specific instructions. It's usually in the custom functions menu.

The Focus Troubleshooting Checklist

If you're getting blurry images, run through this checklist:

Is your shutter speed fast enough?

  • Remember: 1/focal length minimum when handholding
  • If you're using a 200mm lens and shooting at 1/60, you're going to get blur from camera shake

Did you actually focus on the right thing?

  • Check which focus point was active
  • For portraits, you should be focused on the eyes, especially the closest eye

Is your aperture too wide for your depth of field needs?

  • Shooting at f/1.4 means if you focus on the eyes, the nose might be soft
  • Try stopping down to f/2.8 or f/4

Are you in the right focus mode?

  • Moving subject with single-shot focus = blurry images
  • Still subject with continuous focus = camera might refocus on the wrong thing

Is it actually camera shake, not focus issues?

  • Use a faster shutter speed or a tripod
  • Enable image stabilization if your lens has it

The Practice Exercise

Set up a simple still life (a stack of books, a vase, whatever). Practice with each focus mode:

  1. Use single-shot focus with a single focus point—focus on a specific word on the book spine
  2. Use continuous focus and move the books toward/away from you while maintaining focus
  3. Try back button focus if you're feeling adventurous

Then photograph a moving subject (your pet, a friend walking, a kid playing):

  1. Use continuous focus with zone AF
  2. Practice tracking them as they move
  3. Review your images—which ones are sharp?

Understanding focus modes is one of those things that seems technical and boring until you realize it's the difference between getting the shot and missing it entirely.


Bringing It All Together

Wow, we've covered a lot! Over these two blog posts, we've gone from the fundamentals of exposure to the nuances of focus modes. If your head is spinning, that's totally normal. Photography has a learning curve, and there's a lot to absorb.

But here's the thing: you don't have to master everything at once. In fact, trying to will just leave you frustrated.

Our advice? Pick one thing from these posts and focus on it for a week:

  • Week 1: Really nail the relationship between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO
  • Week 2: Practice only during golden hour and experiment with different lighting angles
  • Week 3: Fix your white balance workflow
  • Week 4: Start the 30-day Manual mode challenge
  • Week 5: Master your focus modes

By the end of five weeks, you'll be a completely different photographer than you are today. We promise.

The Most Important Thing

Remember when we said at the beginning that we were terrible when we started? That wasn't false modesty. Stephanie's first paid session (yes, she got paid actual money) had so many out-of-focus images that she almost quit photography entirely. Alfred once shot an entire session in JPEG at the wrong white balance and couldn't fully fix it in editing.

We've overexposed, underexposed, missed focus, accidentally shot in the wrong mode, and made literally every mistake in this guide multiple times.

The difference between us then and now isn't talent—it's practice. It's making mistakes, figuring out what went wrong, and not making that same mistake again (while finding new and creative mistakes to make instead). So be patient with yourself. Photography is a journey, not a destination. Every professional whose work you admire was once exactly where you are, probably even more confused and frustrated.

Your Homework

Go out this week and shoot 100 photos. It doesn't matter what of. Your backyard, your breakfast, your dog, your friend. Just shoot.

Don't worry about them being perfect. Don't worry about them being Instagram-worthy. Just practice applying what you've learned. Experiment. Make mistakes. Try weird things. Then look at those 100 photos and pick your favorite 10. Figure out why they work. Look at the settings you used. Think about what you'd do differently next time. That's how you get better. Not by reading blog posts (though we appreciate you reading ours!), but by actually shooting.


Final Thoughts

We hope these two blog posts have demystified some of the technical aspects of photography and given you actionable steps to improve your skills. Photography is an incredible blend of technical knowledge and creative vision, and now you have more of both.

If you take nothing else from these posts, remember this: your camera is just a tool. A really cool, sophisticated tool, but a tool nonetheless. The magic isn't in the gear—it's in your eye, your creativity, and your willingness to keep learning and experimenting.

Now stop reading and go shoot something!

Alfred & Stephanie

Salud Photography

P.S. - We'd love to see what you create as you work through these tips! If you share your progress on social media, tag us—we love seeing photographers grow and develop their skills. And if you have questions or topics you'd like us to cover in future posts, drop a comment below. We're in this together!


Quick Reference Guide

Exposure Triangle:

  • Aperture: Controls light and depth of field (small # = big opening = blurry background)
  • Shutter Speed: Controls light and motion (fast = freeze, slow = blur)
  • ISO: Controls light and noise (low = clean, high = grainy)

Aperture Quick Guide:

  • Portraits: f/2.8-f/5.6
  • Groups: f/5.6-f/8
  • Landscapes: f/8-f/16

White Balance:

  • Cloudy preset = adds warmth
  • Tungsten preset = adds coolness
  • Shoot RAW for maximum flexibility

Focus Modes:

  • Single-shot: Still subjects
  • Continuous: Moving subjects
  • Single focus point: Maximum control

The 30-Day Challenge:

  • Days 1-3: Study Auto mode
  • Days 4-10: Aperture Priority
  • Days 11-17: Shutter Priority
  • Days 18-30: Manual mode

Now you're ready to go create something amazing. We believe in you!